The Priory In June

I will be leaving Sussex and The Priory very soon.  And if I’m excited about my future life in a different part of England, my lower lip trembles sometimes at the thought of leaving this garden; a garden in which I’ve spent hundreds and hundreds of my days.  (By a rough calculation, more than 1500).

I’ve been so busy selling a house here and buying a house in Gloucestershire, that I’ve neglected to show you The Priory during her best time: May and June. But then, as I was walking about the grounds last week, I noticed so many pretty things, so much darn flower that I paused, slapped my forehead and ran for my dusty camera. Here’s a little – mostly rose and clematis – of that Priory June colour.

Rosa ‘New Dawn_

This Rosa ‘New Dawn’ was growing by the front door on the day I started work in 2008.  I haven’t done much to it other than train it upwards and along the flat leaded porch roof.  I don’t even feed it but, despite neglectful care, it flowers heartily and gives a warm welcome – to non-existent visitors.

Rosa 'Madame Alfred Carrière'

Whereas, Rosa ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’ I did plant. It grows above the kitchen door and window in almost perpetual shade, barely suffers from rust nor black spot and bears heavy, fragrant, repeat blooms. My kind of rose and perfect for this north facing wall.

Rosa ‘Sander_s White_ (1)

On the rose tunnel, R. ‘Sander’s White‘ is a big fat show off.

Rosa ‘Sander_s White_

This is not an understated rose. It has a superabundance of blooms with a scent that punches you in the nose – in a playfull way. For a few days in June, it flowers quite delightfully, quite madly.

Rosa ‘Sander_s White_ (2)

As you probably know – if you’ve been reading my record of a Sussex garden for a while – I grow several different clematis in amongst the roses on the tunnel.  The Sander’s White is a short-lived phenomenon after all.

Clematis ‘Warsawska Nike_ (2)

The large flat plates of Clematis ‘Warszawska Nike’ is one of fifteen varieties of clematis here.

Clematis ‘Warsawska Nike_ (1)

Conventional wisdom would have me prune this pruning group 3 clematis* each spring to 6-8 inches above ground level but I’ve learnt that doing so presents beak-level, tender new shoots to hungry pheasant. So, I don’t do that. No. I cut back to a pair of shoots at about 3 or 4 feet – out of reach of pheasant and also beyond concerted slug attack. The clematis grows taller too … with its flowers intertwining amongst the roses rather than staring at my navel.

Clematis ‘Etoile Violette_

Nearby is Clematis ‘Étoile Violette’ – also pruning group 3. Again, I leave several feet of stem when pruning in spring. If I thwart the attention of pheasant, I provide handy nose-level morsels to deer. Win some …

Clematis ‘Etoile Violette_ (2)

Étoile Violette bears lots of deep, purple flower and eventually scrambles far above the regular attention of deer. This year, the deer damage to trees, shrubs and er, most things actually, has been particularly bad.

Clematis 'Princess Diana'

On a shadier tunnel post, is C. ‘Princess Diana’.

Clematis 'Princess Diana' (2)

She’s a gaudy pink but I forgive her that – given the beautiful tulip shaped flower. No deer attack on this one yet.

Clematis 'Empress Amy Lai'

A fairly recent addition is C. ‘Empress Amy Lai’ – another purple,

Clematis 'Empress Amy Lai' (2)

filling the bare stems of climbing roses overhead. C. ‘Empress Amy Lai’ is pruning group 2.

Clematis 'Crimson King' (2)

I moved C. ‘Crimson King’ from elsewhere in the garden. It struggled in the long border with competition from so many herbaceous plants and is much happier here. But it ain’t crimson. Group 2.

Clematis ‘Betty Corning_ (2)

C. ‘Betty Corning’ is a favourite – after seeing it in my mother-in-law’s garden – here growing amongst honeysuckle

Clematis ‘Betty Corning_ (1)

and deftly hiding an old, ugly chain link fence near the house. Also group 3.

Clematis 'Roko-Kolla'

I really like another newbie – Clematis ‘Roko-Kolla’ .  It bears large white flowers with subtle green stripes. Another group 3 but you know by now my feelings about pruning back hard.

Campanula lactiflora ‘Pritchard_s Variety (1)

Over in the kidney beds is Campanula lactiflora ‘Prichard’s Variety’ taking over nicely

Campanula lactiflora ‘Pritchard_s Variety (2)

as foxgloves fade away. This is a splendid, large plant with several impressive flower spikes, forming an excellent centrepiece for a June border. At least, that’s what I think.

Clematis Jackmanii (3)

On the east wall of the house is another clematis, Clematis Jackmanii.  Growing through a rose (variety unknown), this is the only Priory clematis I didn’t plant.

Clematis Jackmanii (2)

I keep its roots well shaded (clematis don’t like their roots sun baked) and tuck in shoots that otherwise wave around in the air.

Clematis Jackmanii (1)

A vigorous plant with a good bold colour too.  Pruning group 3.

Verbena bonariensis (1)

My two twelve metre Verbena bonariensis borders are just coming into flower.

Verbena bonariensis (2)

I don’t normally water them but June and July 2018 have been shockingly dry and I’ve relented.  I should hate to see this spectacle shrivel and turn yellow before I leave.

It’s a funny job mine. I tend a big garden which hardly anyone ever sees. What’s that about?  A week can easily pass without a visitor and now that the house is empty, the owner won’t be coming back.  Plants flourish (or don’t), flower (or don’t), and fade away, with only me as witness … with sometimes you too, of course.

Butterfly Painted Lady (2)

But I do have guests of a sort.

Butterfly Painted Lady (3)

If butterflies, like this Painted Lady, and bees and a host of other insects are attracted to something that I plant, then … well, hell.

Butterfly Painted Lady (1)

I must be doing something right.  Attracting wildlife to The Priory has given me a huge amount of pleasure and satisfaction over the years; so much so that this morning, I watched a doe standing in the shade of the rose tunnel.  Rather than frothing with rage at chomped roses and clematis, her lithe beauty filled me with awe.

Just about.


* Here’s that note on pruning groups, cribbed from an earlier post on Clematis

  • Group 1 – flowers on previous year’s growth and needs hardly any pruning. Tidy up as necessary and reduce in size if it gets too big. If it does need hard cutting back, do so right after flowering.
  • Group 2 – flowering stems produced from previous year growth. Cut back weak, damaged stems to a pair of strong buds in late winter. Tie in stems to form a framework in summer.
  • Group 3 – flowers on current year’s growth. Cut stems back to a pair of strong buds in early spring, a foot or so above ground level (if you’re pheasant proofed).


I was a little disappointed that the Priory’s old and established garden only boasted one clematis.  Over the last six years I have rectified that shortcoming by adding a further twenty or so and today there are almost two dozen clematis dotted about the grounds.  Here are some of them.

Clematis jackmanii

The original Priory clematis is C. Jackmanii clambering three or four metres up into an ancient honeysuckle.  It looks fine against the brick walls of the house with large, four or five petalled, purple flowers appearing in mid to late summer.  (It is pruning group 3.  I’ve added a note about clematis pruning groups at the end of this post, if you’re interested).

Clematis Etoile Violette 2

A couple of years ago, further along the same wall, and to grow up through winter jasmine, I planted C. ‘Etoile Violette’This is a viticella hybrid – a vigorous group most of which flower for several months.  (Also group 3).  When I cut down the jasmine to ground level (the wall needed damp proofing), I moved ‘Etoile Violette‘ to the rose tunnel where it joined another half-dozen varieties.


July 2014

The rose tunnel – extended recently and with many of the old, rotten posts replaced – is not yet completely smothered by roses.  The rose smother rate isn’t helped by regular and enthusiastic pruning by visiting deer.  They are particularly partial to young, knee-high roses which they can chomp at their leisure without having to crane their necks.  Clematis add a little more interest to dwarfed roses – though these too are indiscriminately deer-nibbled.


This section of the tunnel, where I’m still training the scrambling Rosa ‘Sander’s White’ has Clematis ‘Wisley’ on the left with C. ‘Warsawska Nike’ on the right.  (Both group 3).

I’m very fond of ‘Wisley’ – as I am of most plants that perform really well.  The blue-ish petals look good against the white of the rose and it produces a huge amount of bud.

Also on the rose tunnel is C. ‘Westerplatte’ – a strong red, that slowly unfurls its large, velvety, pale-backed flower.  (Group 2).

Here is a clematis which I introduced last year – C. Rooghhi.  I like the pretty, nodding flowers – of which there would be plenty more if it weren’t for those sharp-toothed deer guests.  (It’s Group 3).

Clematis 'Princess Diana'

Another new introduction is a rare (for me) pink – C. ‘Princess Diana’ (Group 3).

Clematis Broughton Bride

One of my favourites is C. ‘Broughton Bride’.  I took this photo in my garden several years ago and left the plant behind when I moved away.  I searched idly for a couple of years for one to add to the Priory.  Eventually, I found ‘BB’ at my local garden centre, Paradise Park (which incidentally is neither a park nor paradise) reduced to £3.  I grabbed it and rubbed my hands with glee.  Dexterously tricky.  That young plant has joined the rose tunnel.  (Group 1).

This is a pretty thing – Clematis ‘Betty Corning’.  Only in her second year, she is still young and relatively small.  Betty is vigorous and will grow far higher and wider in the years to come.  (Deer allowing).  She’s a viticella so yep, pruning group 3.

Clematis koreana Blue Eclipse

I grow some clematis on walls.  I trained C. koreana ‘Blue Eclipse’ along wires and it looked jolly nice … but then died.  It was one of the first plants I put in at the Priory and I hadn’t realised how, during the winter, the soil it sat in would turn to soup.  Poor thing.  (It was group 1).

Clematis Black Prince

This is another viticella, C. ‘Black Prince’ growing up a wall and over the roof of an outbuilding.  It too is a young plant and hopefully will put on more of a show in the years to come.

Clematis 'Kermesina' 2

If you have no wall or roofs to cover, you might grow a clematis up through a tree or shrub.  This very tall viticella, C. ‘Kermesina’ shoots out of the top of a 12ft Osmanthus burwoodii.  Rather than a single spurt, I would have preferred a more spread-out effect.  Perhaps in the future.

Clematis Miss Bateman 2

This was an unnamed gift but I’m fairly certain it is the beautiful ‘Miss Bateman’ – another favourite I left in my garden when I moved house.  She is a group 2 –  or at least would be were she still with us.  She died.

Clematis Miss Bateman

I’m not sure why she decided to leave but I suspect repeated slug damage to young shoots.  I’ll buy another ‘Miss Bateman’ but plant her elsewhere.  She wasn’t tall enough for the amelanchier I put her under.  

Clematis Niobe

I quite like C. Niobe (group 2) but it’s also too short for this viburnum.  Like Miss Bateman, Niobe reaches no taller than a metre or two.  (Apparently it can grow to three metres but not in my experience).

Clematis × triternata Rubromarginata

And finally, a clematis that exceeded all my expectations is the happily named C. × triternata ‘Rubromarginata’ which I grow over a mahonia.  (Group 3).

Clematis × triternata Rubromarginata 2

If the look alone weren’t enough it also has a superb, strong scent.  Of marzipan.  Quite a plant, I think.  You can imagine my grief when it also died – again due to repeated slug attack.  I’ve planted a replacement and during early season wet spells, guard it vigilantly against rasping molluscs.


Here’s that quick note on pruning.  I think some people might be a little confused by pruning clematis but, so long as you know which group a variety belongs to, it is quite straight-forward.  Make a note of the pruning group of any plant you buy – it’ll be on the label.  Or look up the variety’s group online.  Then all you need to do is this:

  • Group 1 – flowers on previous year’s growth and needs hardly any pruning.  Tidy up as necessary and reduce in size if it gets too big.  If it does need hard cutting back, do so right after flowering.
  • Group 2 – flowering stems produced from previous year growth.  Cut back weak, damaged stems to a pair of strong buds in late winter.  Tie in stems to form a framework in summer.
  • Group 3 – flowers on current year’s growth.  Cut stems back to a pair of strong buds in early spring, a foot or so above ground level.

Clematis Wisley 2

And that’s it.  If you want more detail on a particular variety or group, the internet or a decent gardening book will guide you.  But don’t worry too much about pruning groups and certainly don’t be put off from planting these very useful and beautiful climbers.  Clematis are tough plants and won’t mind too much if you make a pruning mistake.  The worst that might happen is that you’ll miss a season’s flowers.  So, for example, don’t hack a Clematis montana (Group 1) back in winter or early spring.  As I’ve said, they flower on the previous season’s stems – which you will have just cut off.